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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.